Höhlenburg Rappenstein


Useful Information

Location: 7204 Untervaz.
Rheintalautobahn A13 exit Zizers, to Untervaz, park at the city center. The walk is about 5 km with 360 m elevation gain, about 2 hours walk.
(46.9247208, 9.5194410)
Open: no restrictions.
Good weather days from APR to NOV strongly recdommended.
[2024]
Fee: free.
[2024]
Classification: SubterraneaCave Castle
Light: bring torch
Dimension: A=1,058 m asl.
Guided tours: self guided
Photography: allowed
Accessibility: no
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As far as we know this information was accurate when it was published (see years in brackets), but may have changed since then.
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History

1165 first written mention of the family von Rappenstein.
1250 castle built by the knightly family Tumb von Neuburg from Vorarlberg.
1450 acquired by the merchant family Mötteli from Ravensburg.
1496 sold to the Bishop of Chur.
1990s path to the castle and castle wall renovated.

Description

The Höhlenburg Rappenstein (cave castle Rappenstein) is a ruined stronghold, built into a huge cave opening in an overhanging cliff face above the Cosenzbach. It was built 750 years ago, around 1250, which was determined by dendrochronology, by examining the tree rings of the wood found in the walls. During the 13th century it was probably a hideout for wartime, but because of the location in a wet cave without sun shining in it was most likely not a place were people lived continually.

During the 13th century, the area belonged to the knightly family Tumb von Neuburg from Vorarlberg. They are named after their main castle Burg Neuburg, which means "new castle", so it is guessed that Rappenstein was their old castle and used until the new castle was built in 1300. Its unknown how the castle was actually named at that time, and there are no written documents which would give any insights. Between 1450 and 1496 the dominion Neuburg belonged to the merchant family Mötteli from Ravensburg. They also owned a castle Rappenstein near St. Gallen, and called themselves von Rappenstein (from Rappenstein). At this time the cave castle was already a ruin, but the locals called it the castle of the Rappensteins, and so its name became castle Rappenstein. In 1496, the Möttelis sold the farm Castrinis which included the ruin, the sale agreement still exists. The castle is not mentioned, and it was most likely already abandoned.

The castle is reached after a walk from nearby Untervaz and a little climbing. At the city limit, a sign posts to the "Höhlenburg Rappenstein". Following the small road uphill to a farm, there is another sign. Across the pasture Castrinis and down into the gorge of the Cosenzbach. Around 1990, the path to the castle was prepared with some wooden stairs and bridges. But still the location is very wild and rough. It is necessary to cross the brook and do a little climbing on the other side to reach the castle. This cave castle is not developed, and not easy to visit.

The 1.4 m thick front wall made of quarry stone is plastered on the outside and inside in Pietra Rasa with horizontal trowel joints. Some remnants of the wooden roof construction are still preserved. Water was supplied by two small springs at the back of the 15 m long cave. But the inside structure of the castle is gone, floors and walls were made of wood and are long gone. The continuous rockfall from the ceiling covered even remaining basements of the internal walls. The entrance to the main castle was highly up in the front wall, a door with a barrel vault which is called Hocheingang. It was also reached by wooden structures which are gone, and there are no pictures, so it is not known what it looked like. But despite much destruction, this is probably the best preserved cave castle of Switzerland.

Nit umasus isch a tüüfs Loch im Schlosshof (der Neuenburg). Döt aahi sei amaal a Hund amena Fuggs naahi. Im Dorf isch der Hund em Jeeger vum Bachtobel naaha entgeega gschprunga, volla Drägg, aber gsund und zwääg.
There was a deep well in the castle courtyard (of the Neuenburg). Once a dog named Fuggs fell into the well. In the village, a hunterfound the dog jumping out of the creek ravine, full of dirt, but in good health and in good spirits.

The first version is in Switzdüütsch, a German dialect spoken in Switzerland, which is for Germans very difficult to understand. The legend is obviously a SmileMysterious Rediscovery Legend and quite typical for those stories. And the next one is about a golden bowling set, combined with the secret tunnel between two faraway places which we called the SmileFar Connection Legend.

Woll, woll, vu däm hani au schu ghört. As hei a Gang vu dr Nöiaburg bis zum Ipsschlössli. Dr Aafang drvuu gsiet ma jo jetz no underäm Schloss. Und eba döt djinn söll das goldiga Chegelspiil sii.
Well, well, I've heard about that too. There is a tunnel between the Neuburg (New Castle) and the Ipsschlössli. The entrance to this tunnel is located below the chateau. And in this passage a Goldenes Kegelspiel (golden bowling set) is hidden.

Ma sait dä Chin: diä chlinä Chin, diä Poppali chemmen us am Ipsschlössli (Mundart für Rappenstein). Ainna vo Vaz, a Schualbuab, het wele dr Hebamm vürchoo und sälber gseeha, wia diä Poppali us am Ipsschlössli dur da Bach aha chemmen; un er isch im strenga Winter döt uf am Bach ghogget, und s’Hoosafütli sei em am Iis agfroora.
The people tell their children, that the babies come from the Ipsschlössli, which is the local dialect word for Rappenstein. In the village Vaz a school pupil tried to find out how this works. He had no idea how the babies would cross the river in front of the castle. He wanted to get ahead of the midwife and climbed up to the ruins in the harsh winter. As he sat there waiting by the stream, his trousers froze to the ice.

Another legend tells about a maiden who is bewitched to haunt in the castle and protect the unborn children of the village and a big treasure hidden in the castle. The White Maiden, the unborn children coming from the cave castle, the hidden treasure in the ruined castle are motives which are told in numerous different versions.

Amool sei a Maitli in Gaschtrinis an era Jumpfera begegnet, und dia hei gsait: ob sei era ni helfa wett? Si chem an dem und dem Tag wider doo heera, aber in era-n-andera Gschtalt. Und an dem Tag isch das Maitli denn gganga, aber zerscht ischi in der Chilch gsi, un het denn an dem Platz gwartet, bis di wiss Jumpfera chemm. Denn isch aber a Schlanga mid ema Bund Schlüssel im Muul choo. Dee hett si den sölle neh, aber es het era gforchta und si het denn d Schlüssel ni törfa neh. Aber zrugg choo ischi au nüna. Ma het ni ggwüsst, wo si hi choo ischt. Si het's vorher dehaim gsait, wo si hi geng. Un im Ipsschlössli isch denn di wiss Jumpfera witer bei dä Poppi bliba.
A young girl met the white maiden one day in Gashtrinis, who offered her a well-paid job. She told her which day she should come back, but warned her that she would then come in a different form. On the specified day, the girl went to church first and waited at the agreed meeting point. But the white maiden did not come, instead a snake came with a bunch of keys in its mouth. The girl knew that she should take the keys, but she was too scared. The girl had told at home where she was going, and when she did not return, they looked for her but could not find her. And the white maiden stayed at the Ipsschlössli, looked after the little babies, cooked and made them mush.